Heroes
I have friends who are leading international climbers, and while they have my great admiration and my love, my heroes are very much local.
Mike Mamacos
In 1949 Mike opened North West Face in du Toits Kloof. It was one of the hardest routes in the world at that time. And it is still an important milestone for any local climber today, armed with all the latest gear. Mike had a hawer-laid rope tied around his waist and his rack consisted of three slings and three karabiners. He led every pitch (about 20 pitches) onsight and clean. To gain some appreciation for the feat one must lead the Tiles Pitch. And then think of Mike, onsight, rope around waist, no gear, and with no real possibility of retreat. Just amazing!Mike opened many great routes, including Jacob's Ladder, Cableway Crag and Atlantic Crag. In a big winter storm I spent a day with him in his shack in Elandspad in Du Toits Kloof. We cooked, and talked, and brewed the whole day long, while I learned many of his stories. He was a gem.
Barry Fletcher
Barry opened Postern Crest in 1956 on Postern Buttress. In 1961 he opened Touch and Go on Table Mountain. In 1963 he opened Fernwood Precipice on the immense Fernwood Face on the back of Table Mountain. Barry was an incredible climber and at the leading edge in the world. Throughout his climbing career he was willing and keen to break all social barriers in terms of climbing partners. What a great man, and in his sunset years I've come to love this gentle legend.Don Hartley
Don has been a massive force in climbing and in running. He has opened many great routes including Magnetic Wall, Roulette and Africa Amphitheatre, and he has been incredible in doing staggeringly high-speed ascents of huge routes with enormous approaches and descents - mostly with my late-brother David. He racked up good ascents in the Alps decades ago, including the Cassin on the Piz Badile and the Central Pillar of Freney that ended with an immense storm on the summit of Mont Blanc that involved starving for four days. Don happened also to win the Two Oceans Ultra Marathon twice! And he has done some fantastic oil paintings for me. One special man, our Don.Justin Hawkins
Justin took climbing standards in South Africa to a whole nother level a couple of decades ago. He was the first South African to climb 8b and boulder 8B. He was right there with Fred Nicole and the other leading international climbers that were making pilgrimages to Rocklands. And Justin is such an amazing man with a huge heart that is brimfull with love. Sure do love this fella.Gosia Lipinska
Gosia is in a league of her own. She has been an incredibly productive 8a climber, which is pretty damn special, but what sets her apart for me is that she climbs with unmatched grace. Completely unmatched. And then to top it off, she is the most modest and beautiful human being. As unattainable as it is, I aspire to being like Gosia!Partners
I have climbed with a heck of a lot of people. And most of them have become lifelong friends. But the list of partners with whom I have done a lot of climbing is fairly short. And of course one does a lot of climbing with partners with whom you bond. The ones you like, trust, and share goals. In some sort of chronological order my main partners have been: David Davies, Brian Gross, Dave Kelfkens, Chris Lomax, Alan Ross, Bruce Daniel, Neil Havenga, Guy Paterson-Jones, Tinie Versfeld, Andy Court and Carolyn Dent. Terrific partners and great friends, these people!